A well-used map of British Columbia marked in felt pen after twelve bicycle tours, all done self-contained and fully loaded as pictured below (my current touring bike, a Trek 520). The tours are listed chronologically beginning with the most recent. Blue denotes where I was at the end of that "saddle" day; red, notable mountain passes. Some summits are also shown in red although many have names known only to locals and long-haul truckers (highway summits, those not meeting the criteria of a pass, do not have official name status in British Columbia). Elevations in metres are noted for most places, which if not indicative of much higher elevations are followed by 'highest point'. An asterisk following a place name denotes a campground or recreational area outside the boundaries of a city, townsite or village. In a few cases, especially where a section of highway is isolated, place names are based on railway points. Ferry rides are noted with their crossing times. Weather information reflects touring in July and August.

The Hills Have Thighs

The toughest climb of all the tours listed was the infamous Duffey Lake Road through Cayoosh Pass to Lillooet, a former logging road paved in 1991 as part of Highway #99, with uninterrupted grades reaching 15%. Ironically, almost out of the mountains, one of the steepest hills encountered on a provincial highway was on the Lougheed (#7) near Agassiz: marked "11% for 2km" the 100m westward ascent of Mount Woodside (at least for the first 0.5km) is steeper—like Cayoosh Pass almost unbearable on a fully laden bicycle.

The steepest highways in British Columbia are usually 7%, some with long sections greater than that, notably the Crowsnest Highway (#3) which eastbound has long climbs on 8% grades. Anarchist Summit, for instance, ascends 955m in 30.1km from the Osoyoos Bridge but the steep part rises 768m in 15.0km. Paulson Summit rises 1055m in 28.2km from the junction with East Lake Drive near the shore of Christina Lake, much of the ascent on an 8% grade. Bombi Summit rises 744m in 17.2km near the Columbia River, and is even steeper westbound, rising 615m in 9.6km from the #3B Jct. The steepest climb on the #3 in either direction is westbound about 14km from Princeton, where the highway rises 275m in 3.9km on the way to Sunday Summit.

Next to Cayoosh Pass—at its steepest rising 1015m in 12.9km—the most difficult climb was Highland Valley Summit, at its worst rising 920m in 15.8km near the base of Highland Valley Road (#97C) at Ashcroft, with a continuous 11% grade according to the brake check sign (most of the road is actually less than 11% but steep nonetheless). McDonald Summit rises 919m in 21.4km from the #24-#5 Jct. at Little Fort, the worst of it rising 691m in 9.0km from the Eakin Creek. McDonald is steeper overall than Highland Valley but the grades do not exceed 8.5%.

The climb from the Great Bear Snowshed to Coquihalla Pass has a section of 11% grade as do a few other highway sections, notably Sinclair Pass to the #93-#95 Jct. at Radium Hot Springs which drops 600m in 12.5km; and Rossland to Trail which drops 652m in 10.3km from the #22 Jct. to the Columbia River. Further up, from Nancy Greene Summit, the highway drops 1158m in 29.9km to the Columbia River at Trail. The paved eastbound ascent of Galena Pass has 5km of 10% grade according to the sign near the summit. Two of the ferry terminals along Upper Arrow Lake, at Galena Bay and Needles, have grades of at least 11%. And Sunwapta Pass in Alberta's Icefields Parkway has a stretch of 11% grade on the southbound switchbacks, and typically such steep grades—there are others—are no longer than a few kilometres.

Heckman Pass, however, is the Mother-of-All highway ascents in British Columbia and the rest of Canada, at its steepest rising 900m in 9.7km. Cayoosh Pass, at its steepest rising 1015m in 12.9km, is a close second. Since the former is unpaved, Cayoosh Pass is the Mother-of-All paved highway ascents in British Columbia and the rest of Canada.

Two of the great paved highway ascents in British Columbia, Kootenay Pass and Pennask Summit, are fairly tame for bicycling since the grades do not exceed 7% on Kootenay Pass and 6% on the westbound ascent of Pennask. From the Nicola Valley in Merritt, the eastbound ascent of Pennask has an initial long grade of 8% courtesy of Hamilton Hill. Although long grinds, Kootenay Pass and Pennask Summit (westbound only) are modern highway segments with relatively unremarkable grades except for their length. At its steepest, from west to east, Kootenay Pass climbs 1134m in 23.1km, no small feat but manageable because 7% to me is the most efficient climbing grade. In the opposite direction, Kootenay Pass rises 1240m in 38.9km from the west end of the Kootenay River Bridge at Creston. The easier Pennask Summit climbs 1378m in 48.4km from the west end of the Okanagan Lake Bridge at Kelowna; even closer it ascends 1197m in 26.7km from the Trépanier Creek Bridge—all hill.

Other big highway ascents in British Columbia include Allison Pass which rises 1282m in 59.1km from Exit #170 (#1-#3/#5 Jct.) at Hope. From the same junction Coquihalla Pass rises 1184m in 49.0km, the bulk of it (780m) in 17.6km. Surrey Lake Summit rises 1084m in 52.3km from the south end of the Yellowhead Bridge at Kamloops; 848m in 35km from Merritt. Rogers Pass rises 887m in 68.6km from the west end of the Columbia River Bridge at Revelstoke. Kelowna-Rock Creek Summit rises 885m in 34.7km from the #33-#97 Jct. at Kelowna. Monashee Pass Summit rises 856m in 87.3km from the #6-#97 Jct. at Vernon; 789m in 48.3km from the ferry dock at Needles. Vermilion Pass rises 853m in 97.3km from the #93-#95 Jct. at Radium Hot Springs to the highest point (1739m) 3.4km east of the Alberta border. Kicking Horse Pass rises 845m in 71.2km from the #1-#95 Jct. at Golden. And Devil's Canyon Summit on the #26 rises 830m in 70.4km from the Quesnel River Bridge on the #97.

For a comparison of State Route #20 in Washington State, known for its big climbs: Washington Pass rises 1510m in 66.9km from the east end of Newhalem; from the opposite side it rises 1011m in 25.2km from the Early Winters Visitor Center north of Mazama. Loup Loup Pass rises 969m in 29.4km from Ione Street in Okanogan. Wauconda Pass rises 1027m in 43.4km from 6th Street in Tonasket. Sherman Pass, the highest highway in Washington, rises 1289m in 36.6km from the west end of the Columbia River Bridge near Kettle Falls.

The Steepest and the Highest: Blood, Sweat and Gears

For steepness there are two notable highway summits in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia. On the way to Bella Coola the unpaved but hard-packed Heckman Pass on Highway #20 descends 1176m in 20.1km then meets asphalt and a slack grade at 318m in the Atnarko Valley. Cayoosh Pass on Highway #99 (Duffey Lake Road, a former logging track) descends 1056m in 13.9km then meets the Pemberton Valley at 204m, making this the overall steepest paved highway section in British Columbia. At its worst Cayoosh descends 1015m in 12.9km—all hill. At the other end at its worst the highway descends 447m in 6.2km to Lillooet.

The average grades for Heckman and Cayoosh—rather deceiving numbers—are 5.9% and 7.9% respectively. Heckman has the honour of the steepest highway grades in the province, though, since at its worst—beginning with a 15% posted grade—rises 900m in 9.7km (9.3% grade) from the Atnarko Valley to where "The Hill" temporarily relents and begins an 80m descent to the Young Creek Bridge. The climb then continues to the summit on somewhat easier posted grades of 10% and 11%. For a comparison of Heckman and Cayoosh, although located entirely in Alaska, the climb from outside Skagway through the Coast Mountains to White Pass (1003m) rises 995m in 18.1km, the summit just before the British Columbia border.

Heckman Pass has posted grades of 10-15% and Cayoosh Pass has posted grades of 11-15%. Heckman was 60m higher at one time but was rerouted some years ago. With even more recent changes the former 18% posted grade signs have been removed and the steepest now show 15%, although the changes have not affected the grades in any way. At Anahim Lake, however, where the pavement ends on the easy gravel climb to the summit (389m gain in 40.7km), a sign still warns of a 6km return trip with 18% grades some 60km away at the base of "The Hill".

The highest posted grade on a paved highway in British Columbia—albeit small sections—is 18%, located southwest of Sutton Pass on Vancouver Island's Highway #4 on the way to Tofino. The unpaved Highway #51 (Telegraph Creek Road) has small sections of 20% grade, making this the steepest on a highway in British Columbia. Like Heckman and Cayoosh, these routes were existing roads later incorporated into the highway system with improvements here and there.

Although not a continuous ascent, the greatest elevation gain in a day's ride on Canadian pavement is from Hope to Cascade Lookout via Highway #3 and Blackwall Peak Road. Leading to the highest pavement in the Cascades of British Columbia, the road begins at 1199m in Manning Park and continues on gravel from the scenic lookout (1680m) to a parking lot (1920m) near the summit of Blackwall Peak (2063m). From the Tourist Info Centre at Hope the paved elevation gain is 1635m in 75km.

The second greatest elevation gain in a day's ride on pavement, again not continuous, is from lake-level at Kelowna then onto Highway #33 where it meets the all-paved Big White Road near Kelowna-Rock Creek Summit, with the upper reaches of the ski village on Porcupine Road 1830m in the Monashees. From the Okanagan Lake Bridge the elevation gain is 1480m in 66km.

The greatest continuous ascent on pavement (or variation thereof) in Canada is the Meadows-in-the-Sky Parkway in Mount Revelstoke National Park. The base of the 26km park road on the Trans-Canada Highway (#1) is at 508m and climbs to 1920m near the top of Mount Revelstoke (1947m) in the Selkirk Mountains. From the east end of the Columbia River Bridge at Revelstoke the elevation gain is 1475m in 28km, or 1492m if one includes the paved trail to the fire lookout (1937m). The Selkirks also provide the highest highway and paved through-road in British Columbia, Kootenay Pass (1774m) on the #3.

The highest highway or paved road in Canada is the aptly-named Highwood Pass (2206m) in the Rockies of Alberta, but in a day's ride the Rocky Mountain Foothills to the east do not provide stupendous elevation gains. From the town of Longview, for example, Highwood Pass rises 985m in 80km. Alberta also has two of the other highest highway points in Canada, Bow Pass (2067m) and Sunwapta Pass (2035m) on the Icefields Parkway. Sunwapta has the biggest elevation gain of the two, rising 1000m in 105km from near the Jasper townsite. None of these three north-south summits has direct highway access from the British Columbia side although all are no more than 12km from its border.

Heckman Pass has the greatest elevation gain in a day's ride on a highway in Canada, rising from sea-level at the Bella Coola ferry terminal to 1494m in 98.1km. The pavement ends at km 78.0 where the very steep climb to the summit begins on a hard-packed, evidently clay-based, road surface. Pennask Summit has the greatest elevation gain in a day's ride on a paved highway in Canada, rising 1378m in 48.4km from the west end of the Okanagan Lake Bridge at Kelowna.

Perhaps the highest driveable road in British Columbia and the rest of Canada is to the top of Canoe Mountain south of Valemount. The Canoe Mountain Forestry Road, leading to a microwave facility in the northernmost Monashees, begins at 817m on Highway #5 and ends at 2623m near the peak's summit. The road is suitable for a 2WD, and ascends 1806m in 12.8km on a 14.1% grade.

And perhaps the greatest vertical ascent on any road in British Columbia and the rest of Canada is the Texas Creek Forest Service Road to the north fork of the Molybdenite Creek Road which at the end reaches the mineral claims on the Molybdenite Pluton, 2500m in the Coast Mountains. From the junction (303m) at Texas Creek Road and Westside Road, 17km south of Lillooet (220m) along the Fraser River, there is 2197m of ascent in 20km; from Lillooet, 2280m in 37km.

To the Rocky Mountains from Vancouver

The easiest mainland route, with the least amount of mountain passes, from Vancouver to the Continental Divide—marking the southern boundary of British Columbia and Alberta for half their length—is the Trans-Canada Highway (#1) from Hope to Kamloops then the #5 to Tête Jaune Cache and #16 through Yellowhead Pass to Jasper. An alternative is to bypass the low-level yet rolling section of the #1 between Hope and Kamloops altogether and take the Coquihalla (#5), a modern highway with good, wide shoulders which travels through a beautifully rugged canyon in the Cascade Mountains.

Although the elevation gain from Hope (45m at the Tourist Info Centre and 60m at km 0 at Exit #170 on Highway #1) seems daunting, the ascent of Coquihalla Pass is surprisingly benign except for one section. From Hope the highway (shared with the #3) climbs 200m to the #5 junction (km 6.7) then descends 80m before the continuous climb begins up the Coquihalla Canyon. The grades are initially gentle, reflecting a former railway right-of-way, then steepen at the north end of the Ladner Creek Bridge (km 27.6, 420m). From the Great Bear Snowshed (km 42.1) the highway climbs very steeply, rising 250m in 3.2km to a brake check and rest area where easy grades lead to the top at Coquihalla Summit (km 49.0, 1244m).

Beyond the summit, just down from the tollbooth (km 54.8; no charge for bicycles) is Coquihalla Lakes Lodge, the only showered campground between Merritt and Hope. From the exit to Coquihalla Lakes, the highway is downhill except for a minor climb up Larson Hill then a 200m descent on Coldwater Hill to the Kingsvale Bridge (km 86.1) across the Coldwater River. Here the highway climbs almost 200m on Godey Hill but this can be avoided by taking the quiet, rolling Coldwater Road all the way to Merritt, with views of the "Coq" high above to your right and the river below to your left (Coldwater Road is more difficult southbound, with some short 9% grades).

Vending operations (food and drink) are available in the summer near both sides of the Coquihalla summit: at the Zopkios brake check/rest area (km 45.3) and Coldwater rest area (km 57.0). The latter's washroom is noted for its deliciously cold well water, so this is a good refilling station since the nearby toll booth's water does not come from a well. A side road at the Coldwater rest area leads a short distance to the Coquihalla Lakes campground. The two vending operations are the only such services between Hope and Merritt, although if one takes Coldwater Road there is a store on the Coldwater Indian Reserve.

From Merritt (km 119.8 at the first #5A exit), whose municipal campground is located just above the Coldwater River at 604m, the highway accords a climb to the top of the plateau at Surrey Lake Summit (1444m), a long grind but not too difficult since the grades are uniform and not excessive, easing at the 1300m mark (km 140). After reaching Surrey Lake Summit (km 153) the highway eventually descends to the Melba Creek (km 162.4, 1240m) and then climbs to the junction (km 166.9, 1330m) with Meadow Creek Road—recently designated Highway #97D—to Logan Lake and Lac Le Jeune Road to Kamloops. At a brake check exit (km 177.1) the highway begins a 970m non-continuous descent to the valley floor at the Yellowhead Bridge (km 205.3, 360m) over the South Thompson River. While at the junction with Meadow Creek Road, an alternative is to take Lac Le Jeune Road, another welcome stretch of quiet pavement which has a much more dramatic descent into Kamloops and also provides the only campgrounds between the city and Merritt.

One can also travel from Merritt to Kamloops on Highway #5A which parallels the Coquihalla along the lower elevations of the Thompson Plateau to the east. This part of #5A, 9.9km longer than the Coquihalla equivalent, has little traffic and reaches only 910m at Knutsford Summit about 9km south of the highway's junction in the upper reaches of Kamloops. The old highway provides welcome relief from the drone of vehicles on the Coquihalla and the chance to see nesting osprey along Nicola Lake. With the elevation difference #5A also has remarkably different landscapes to recommend it. And unlike the Coquihalla north from Merritt, isolated like its counterpart to Hope, #5A has services along the way; the last near the north end of Nicola Lake, including a campground. There is a stiff 11% climb from the north end of Shumway Lake to near Knutsford Summit, where the highway rises 170m in 2.2km.

Another quiet route north of Merritt is Mamit Lake Road (part of #97C) which follows much of the Guichon Creek upstream to the #97D Jct., below the town of Logan Lake. This route will have the easiest grades to Kamloops, bypassing the 700m, 22km climb to near Surrey Lake Summit on the #5 and the steep climb north of Shumway Lake on the #5A. From Merritt to the municipal campground in Logan Lake the road rises about 500m in 49km, the Thompson Plateau not allowing any really easy grades on the three northern routes to Kamloops. At Logan Lake, a short climb from the #97C Jct., 24km of slight uphill grade on #97D (Meadow Creek Road) lead to the junction with the #5 and Lac Le Jeune Road.

The Coquihalla Highway is 74km shorter than the #1 from Hope to Kamloops, avoiding the seven tunnels of the Fraser Canyon and the dry, rather forlorn section from Cache Creek to Kamloops. There would probably be less accumulative elevation gain with the Coquihalla shortcut, too, since the #1 twists and rolls above the Fraser and Thompson Rivers. For easier grades, the Crowsnest Highway (#3) is out of the question since it faces head-on the many mountain ranges to the east beginning with the Cascades and Allison Pass.

From Kamloops, #5 follows the North Thompson River for much of the way to the Rockies on gentle grades interrupted by the occasional hill like Messiter Summit (km 413.6, 765m), which bypasses a narrow section of the river. Before descending into the Rocky Mountain Trench the highway reaches a high point of 904m at Albreda Summit (km 498.2), near the divide between the Fraser and Columbia watersheds. From Tête Jaune Cache (km 543), firmly in the Trench at 749m at one point, #5 now turns into #16 and begins the ascent toward Yellowhead Pass on the Alberta border (km 620.1, 1151m)—one of the easiest crossings of the Rocky Mountains.

On the negative side, #5 and #16 from Kamloops to the Rockies is not as scenic as the #1 from Kamloops through Rogers and Kicking Horse Passes which to me provide more stunning mountain vistas. Highway #16, however, is rewarded with breathtaking views of Mount Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies. And from Jasper one can travel south through the magnificent Icefields Parkway to other popular cycling destinations like Lake Louise, Banff and Waterton.

From Hope—where Exit #170 is used as the starting point—the #5 and the small section of #16 from Tête Jaune Cache is 220km shorter to the Alberta border than the #3. The route is also 14km shorter from Kamloops to the Alberta border than the #1. The Coquihalla route extolled here is the shortest way to the Continental Divide from the lower Fraser Valley—only 722km from the Albion ferry terminal on Highway #7 across from Fort Langley.

The Okanagan Connector

The Coquihalla route is also the shortest way to the Okanagan, via #5A and #97C—known collectively as the Okanagan Connector or Coquihalla Connector. One of the highest highway segments in British Columbia (40km are above 1400m), the hardest part of the journey begins outside Merritt where a 6km, 8% climb on #5A takes one out of the Nicola Valley to a brake check atop Hamilton Hill (1110m). From the center of Merritt at Voght Street and Nicola Avenue the road rises 510m in 12km. Easy grades lead 16km to the #5A-#97C Jct. at Aspen Grove where the #97C climbs and descends a short hill to the 1020m mark. The somewhat choppy ascent then begins in earnest to Pennask Summit (1728m), 49km from the junction. The grades to the top are unremarkable, indicative of a modern highway and rolling plateau country with the worst section rising 390m in 7km. Two kilometres east of the summit sign the highway begins a continuous 25km descent to the Trépanier Creek Bridge (531m). Coupled with a probable headwind and bulging panniers, the 6% downhill is undramatic, belying the fact that Pennask is the second highest highway in British Columbia. On its final 6km leg from the Trépanier Creek, the Connector climbs 60m then descends past a Tourist Info Centre to the #97C-#97 Jct. (494m) high above Okanagan Lake.

The Okanagan Connector has few roadside services between Merritt and the #97C-#97 Jct. Elkhart Lodge, 30km east of Aspen Grove, has a store, restaurant and lodging but do not count on it being open in summer. Like the Coquihalla Highway from Hope to Kamloops the Connector has wide shoulders, the last narrow section of the much older #5A recently four-laned with new asphalt. The Connector is also much quieter than its busy counterpart from Hope to Kamloops.

Other Ways Out of Vancouver

Sea-to-Sky Highway (#99)

Hope, nestled between the Coast and Cascade Mountains, has three of four highways into the interior of the province from the lower Fraser Valley. The exception is the #99 (the Sea-to-Sky Highway), north of Vancouver, noted for its torturous ascent through Cayoosh Pass to Lillooet—certainly not recommended for those seeking easy grades to the Continental Divide. This route is longer (403km from Horseshoe Bay to Kamloops) and except for the climb to Cayoosh Pass the grades are otherwise unremarkable compared to those out of Hope.

From Horseshoe Bay (0 km), where the Trans-Canada's mainland section ends with the ferry connection to Vancouver Island, #99 travels above the shores of Howe Sound to Squamish (km 44) and then climbs 640m into the mountains, part of it through the rugged Cheakamus Canyon, to Whistler Village (km 103, 672m). From the resort, the highway descends into the Pemberton Valley and crosses the Lillooet River Bridge (km 136.2, 210m) east of Pemberton.

At km 150.9 (204m) along Lillooet Lake, now on Duffey Lake Road with a trickle of the busy traffic from Whistler to Horseshoe Bay, the #99 begins an ascent of 1056m in 13.9km through the Coast Mountains to Cayoosh Pass. The steep grades, reaching 15%, slacken before the turnoff to the Joffre Lakes Provincial Park parking lot (km 164.2, 1220m). After a little more climbing, on much easier grades, the highway begins a long descent to Lillooet. The last part is the steepest, plummeting 447m in 6.2km on 13% and 11% grades to the Seton Dam Road turnoff (km 227.4, 240m) along the Seton River which the highway follows through lower Lillooet to the Bridge of the 23 Camels (km 231.8, 229m) across the Fraser River.

From the junction with Highway #12 (km 232.6) the #99 begins the climb high above the Fraser River on the east side of the railway grade, then crosses to the grade's west side at Glen Fraser (km 256.8, 522m). Just past the former Pavilion store after a stiff climb, the highway crosses the railway one more time (at km 264.7, 676m) and heads east to eventually enter the Marble Canyon on the west side of Pavilion Lake. Just beyond the turnoff to Marble Canyon Provincial Park, the highway reaches Marble Canyon Pass (km 280.9, 868m). At the junction with Hat Creek Road (km 287.0) the elevation stays high and then the highway descends through the Bonaparte Valley to the junction with Highway #97 (km 307.3, 505m). From the junction the #1 is 11.0km to the south at Cache Creek.

Crowsnest Highway (#3)

The Crowsnest Highway (#3) is well-known for its precipitous 840km-long journey from Hope to the Alberta border, cutting through the north-south mountain ranges that dominate British Columbia. Although there are many climbs on the way east, except for Bombi Summit they are spread out over the length of the road with breaks of relatively easy cycling in between. The landscapes are more diverse, too, and there is less traffic than the #1 and the Coquihalla (the #99 north of Pemberton is the least-traveled). The distance from Hope to the top of Kootenay Pass is 543km, where the worst of the Crowsnest's reputation will be over.

Highway #3 from Hope begins with crossing the Cascades to Princeton, not so difficult as it is long: 132.7km of asphalt to Vermillion Avenue in Princeton. The road begins with a 668m climb to the Hope Slide (728m, km 17.6) then descends through Sunshine Valley, west of the entrance to Manning Park, to a low point of 628m at Sumallo Grove (km 34.5) in the Rhododendron Flats. The road climbs from the flats to the Snass Creek Bridge (km 37.6) and enters the Skagit Bluffs, a short, imposing section of mountain highway. After a slight descent, just below the 800m mark, the road begins the final ascent from the Skaist River Bridge (km 43.3) to Allison Pass (km 59.1, 1342m).

The highway now begins a long, gradual descent past the Manning Park Lodge (km 66.7), to Eastgate (km 83.4) at the eastern boundary of the park, reaching a low point of 952m northeast of Similkameen Falls (km 88.2) before ascending to Sunday Summit (1282m, km 99.5). From this second summit the highway stays high for quite a few kilometres before descending on a two-tiered downhill run to Princeton (km 132.7), the first part on a long stretch of 9% grade—the steepest part of the #3 in either direction.

From Princeton the #3 follows the Similkameen River through Hedley, Keremeos and Cawston (380m south of town) on very easy grades and then leaves the river to ascend Richter Pass (682m) on a 6% grade. From the pass, separating the Similkameen and Okanagan Valleys, the highway then descends to the desert town of Osoyoos which is the lowest point in the southern interior.

From the Osoyoos Bridge (280m) near lake-level #3 travels 2.7km then begins a steep (8%) 15.0km climb to a brake check and rest area at 1072m on the way to Anarchist Summit (1233m). The highway then descends slightly and begins its final ascent on easier grades to the summit, 12.4km from the rest area. The highway now descends 618m in 20km to the Rock Creek Bridge.

The #3 follows the Kettle River from Rock Creek on easy grades to Midway (577m) then begins an easy 30km gradual ascent through Boundary Falls and Greenwood to Eholt Summit (1028m). A more dramatic grade takes you downhill to Grand Forks and easy grades to Christina Lake.

Rising 1073m from Christina Lake, at the Christina Creek Bridge, the highway reaches Paulson Summit (1535m) in 35.3km. The real climbing begins 7km away as the highway leaves the lake, eventually slackens and then climbs steeply on a long 8% grade to the Paulson Bridge. At the summit, 11.1km from the bridge, the road descends gradually for most of the way then drops steeply into Castlegar to the Highway #22 exit (a distance of 37.1km).

Past the Kinnaird Bridge across the Columbia River at Castlegar, #3 rises 744m in 17.2km to Bombi Summit (1214m) then descends steeply (615m in 9.6km) to the junction with Highway #3B at Meadows; 10.8km away on easy grades is the junction with Highway #6 at Salmo.

The highway now travels 14km to another junction with the #6 and begins the 1134m ascent out of the Salmo Valley to Kootenay Pass (1774m). Although a long, continuous climb (23.1km), unlike some previous encounters the grades to this heralded summit do not exceed 7%. The effort is rewarded with a glorious 33km, 1215m descent to the Summit Creek Bridge and the start of the Kootenay River flood plain west of Creston. From Creston, whose core is nestled above the valley, the route through the Purcell Mountains to Cranbrook then down and up the Rocky Mountain Trench to Crowsnest Pass is all rather tame.

Trans-Canada Highway (#1)

Unlike the Crowsnest or Coquihalla, the Trans-Canada Highway does not traverse mountains to leave Hope—it travels through a huge fault better known as the Fraser Canyon. Following the Fraser River to Lytton, the #1 climbs 125m out of Hope away from the river and then descends to meet it again, later to enter the formidable canyon at Yale (km 25).

More important than the grades since there are no mountain passes, the highway travels through seven tunnels beyond Yale (milepost followed by length): Yale (km 26.2; 0.32km), Saddle Rock (km 30.3; 0.15km), Sailor Bar (km 36.5; 0.29km), Alexandra (km 48.4; 0.27km), Hells Gate (km 53.2; 0.10km), Ferrabee (km 53.5; 0.18km), and China Bar (km 58.1; 0.63km). All have a narrow walkway on the opposite side just big enough to get panniers through, but the short tunnels can safely be ridden by waiting for a break in traffic. The last, the curvy China Bar Tunnel, is the longest and should certainly be walked. The tunnels give testimony to the difficulty faced by road builders in this part of the canyon—as mountainous as British Columbia is, I know of only two other highway tunnels outside the province's urban areas.

Past the last tunnel the canyon becomes less constricted and makes its way to Boston Bar (km 66) and Lytton (km 109.2 at the #12 Jct.), where the highway leaves the Fraser to join the Thompson River. Although the #1 reaches no higher than 361m between Hope and Lytton, the ups and downs above the mighty Fraser make for a fairly tough day of cycling, more so than would many high mountain passes. The section from Boston Bar to Lytton is more difficult and the traffic seems faster, the rough part of the canyon perhaps slowing the pace.

From Lytton (km 109) the #1 follows the Thompson River along a smaller version of the Fraser Canyon but with easier grades since the road parallels the river's bank for much of the way. The highway reaches a low point of 195m south of the Nicoamen River Bridge (km 126.4) along the north boundary of the Cascades, a notable elevation so far from tidewater. About 20km north of the Thompson River Bridge (km 145.3, just before Spences Bridge), Oregon Jack Hill forces the highway northwest away from the river, eventually passing Ashcroft Manor (km 183.6, 492m) before meeting the Highway #97 junction (km 194.6, 470m) at Cache Creek.

At the junction the #1 climbs out of Cache Creek and passes through the Semlin Valley to meet the Thompson River once again, rolling above but never quite getting to water-level until the Savona Bridge (km 230.4, 360m) at the west end of Kamloops Lake. The highway soon ascends 225m, goes back down 180m then begins the climb to the junction with the Coquihalla Highway at the Afton Interchange (km 266.6, 745m). Eastbound this is the biggest single climb (340m gain) on the #1 between Hope and Revelstoke. Now shared with the #5 and #97—at 2191.1km the longest highway in British Columbia—the #1 then descends 395m to the South Thompson River, past the #5 exit (km 278.1) near the east end of Kamloops Lake. The downhill, at first gradual, is unique: Amongst the urban sprawl of Kamloops is a runaway lane (km 276.9), a safeguard from the final wrath of the Thompson Plateau.

From Kamloops the highway follows the South Thompson River on easy grades to Chase (km 332) then rolls along the Shuswap Highlands before descending to Sicamous (km 418), where more easy grades along the Eagle River lead into the Monashee Mountains. From Eagle Pass (km 477, 562m) the #1 descends to the Columbia River Bridge (km 488.1, 445m) at Revelstoke and then climbs the Illecillewaet Valley to Rogers Pass Summit (km 556.7, 1332m) in the Selkirk Mountains, passing through three snowsheds between km 535 and km 537.

From the summit the highway descends steeply with Connaught Creek through five more snowsheds (between km 561 and km 564) to the Beaver River Bridge (km 571.3, 844m). The road climbs out of the Beaver Valley, the boundary between the Selkirk and Purcell Mountains, to a high point of 1086m east of the Quartz Creek Bridge (km 594.2) and then descends from the Purcells into the Rocky Mountain Trench to again meet a bridge over the Columbia River (km 610.6, 780m), at Donald.

Easy grades, typical of the Trench, lead to Golden (km 637.0 at the #95 Jct.) where the highway climbs steeply (8% at times) with the Kicking Horse River into the Rocky Mountains. The grades lessen at a brake check (km 654, 1140m) and then a more gradual ascent begins through the Kicking Horse Valley to Field (km 692, 1256m). At a bridge over the Kicking Horse River (km 696.2, 1265m) the highway begins the final climb to the Continental Divide at Kicking Horse Pass on the Alberta border (km 708.2, 1647m).

Yellowhead—Trans-Canada Highway (#16)

The easiest but longest route from the west coast of British Columbia to the Rockies is the #16 from Prince Rupert, which travels 997km to Tête Jaune Cache without any serious climbs. From sea-level at Prince Rupert—km 0 although the #16 actually begins on Queen Charlotte Island—to the province's center at Prince George (km 722, 575m), following the Skeena, Bulkley and Endako Rivers, the highway reaches no higher than 850m with no dramatic ascents like those in the south.

From Prince George the highway enters the floor of the Rocky Mountain Trench east of Purden Lake and then rolls along the trench's western slope. Some real climbing begins 39km before McBride where the road ascends 225m from the Goat River Bridge to the highest point (952m) on the #16 west of the Rockies, and eventually descends into the beautiful Robson Valley. From McBride (km 932, 724m) the highway crosses the Fraser River (last seen in Prince George) and then travels the trench's eastern slope before once again dropping to the valley floor at Tête Jaune Cache (km 997). Following the Fraser River to its headwaters the #16 climbs into the Rockies, rising slightly then descending to a low point at the Swift Current Creek Bridge (km 1009, 812m) in Mount Robson. From this small tourist community the highway now begins the easy climb—the first short section is the steepest—to Yellowhead Pass and the Alberta border (km 1073.9, 1151m).

A scheduled ferry runs from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert, and to reach the terminal from Vancouver entails very easy grades on Vancouver Island until Campbell River where the terrain becomes more rugged but the highway (#19) rolls no higher than 424m on the way north. One will encounter Malahat Summit (356m) on the #1 well outside of Swartz Bay but this can be avoided by taking the short ferry from Brentwood Bay to Mill Bay, or taking the main ferry directly to Nanaimo.

Based on the route via Vancouver and Swartz Bay one would travel about 1600km of road to Tête Jaune Cache without ever exceeding 952m of elevation, a notable feat considering the distance. The steepest part of the whole trip would be on Vancouver Island at Sayward Junction, where the #19 climbs an 8% grade for a few kilometres to a brake check—a rarity on the Island Highway.

Chilcotin Highway (#20)

From Port Hardy one can also take a scheduled ferry to Bella Coola as the mainland starting point to the Rockies (961km to Tête Jaune Cache), but this will be a challenging ride because of Heckman Pass. Arriving at the ferry terminal outside Bella Coola there is a reminder that Highway #20 is not a typical road, with the base of towering mountains and an avalanche zone at its doorstep near sea-level. Further up on gentle grades through the stunning Bella Coola Valley the asphalt ends and "The Hill" begins, a climb so steep that it will deter only the heartiest of pannier-laden cyclists.

North Cascades Highway (Washington State Route #20)

In the United States the nearest west-east highway south of Vancouver happens to be one of the most scenic. The North Cascades Highway (SR20) in Washington State travels through a more beautiful part of the Cascade Mountains than the #3 or #5 in British Columbia. The longest highway in Washington (703km), SR20 begins at Discovery Bay near Port Townsend and ends at the Idaho border in Newport. It is the southern equivalent of the precipitous Crowsnest Highway (#3) just across the International Boundary, both snaking their way through mountains and river valleys with abandon.

Because the Cascades are more imposing on this route, initially the climbing is too. Like Allison Pass (1342m) and Sunday Summit (1282m) on the #3, SR20 has two summits to traverse before reaching the eastern side: Rainy Pass (1479m) and, 7.8km away, Washington Pass (1669m) which cut through the crest of the range and provide more wonderful mountain scenery; Allison and Sunday pale in comparison. Coquihalla Pass, on the other hand, follows a canyon through the northern end of the range where it is narrower, the Cascades remarkably different than further south (but still very rugged and snowbound in winter). On the #3 one rarely gets the feeling they are traveling through such a mighty range as the Cascades.

Once over the Cascade Mountains, the big climbs continue on SR20: Loup Loup Summit (752m gain) over the Okanogan Range, an extension of the Cascades, to the Okanogan Valley; then Wauconda Pass (1313m; 1036m gain) and Sherman Pass (1699m; 958m gain), the highest highway in Washington which descends 1289m to the Columbia River. The highway then climbs one last time, to Tiger Summit (992m; 582m gain), and then there are easy grades to the end of SR20 at Newport, a stone's throw from the Idaho border.

The ascents on the #3 are worse than SR20 because the former has long sections of 8% grade. Even Sherman Pass at its worst, from east to west, has relatively easy grades compared to the big climbs on the #3. The grades from Newport through the Idaho panhandle and Montana to the western edge of the Rocky Mountains are rather easy, too. To further compliment this northernmost route is one of the most scenic roads in North America, Going-to-the-Sun Road which traverses the Continental Divide at Logan Pass (2036m).

Going-to-the-Sun Road, traveling the length of Glacier National Park, is a spectacular journey through the Rockies—the jewel of all subsequent crossings in British Columbia. Although at its pinnacle a twisting road cut into the mountainside, it is so well-engineered that the grades are easy compared to some of the northern counterparts, notably the last section of Kicking Horse Pass eastbound and Vermilion Pass westbound which has a long 8% grade out of the Bow Valley. And this is from the difficult side of Logan Pass where the elevation gain is greater, the road rising 1060m in 51km from West Glacier.

From Logan Pass begins a 650m descent to St. Mary, Montana, where one can climb north to reach the Alberta border at Chief Mountain about 43km away. The highway here introduces you to the most beautiful part of the Canadian Rockies, traveling north and culminating in the Icefields Parkway to Jasper.

This northern route directly below British Columbia is 1132km from the border at Sumas, Washington, to the Continental Divide at Logan Pass. The Cascade and Rocky Mountains are more impressive, the roads quieter, more isolated, and their grades easier (at least compared to the #3).

Summit Alley: The Crowsnest Highway and Washington State Route #20

The main road system in 1929 as published in Road Map of the Pacific Northwest by the Inland Automobile Association. The road from Golden through Kicking Horse Pass to Lake Louise was completed in 1927, as was the road from Yale to Spences Bridge (the section from Lytton is shown as 'proposed'). Not shown but built by this time is the road east from Vernon through the Monashee Pass to Lower Arrow Lake.

The main motor route across early British Columbia was in the south, much of what is today the Crowsnest Highway. The Southern Trans-Provincial Highway from Vancouver went through Spences Bridge, Merritt, Princeton (initially via Coalmont) and then east following most of the Crowsnest route in place today. A direct connection from the Fraser Valley to the southern interior came in 1949 when the Hope-Princeton Highway was completed.

Note the Cascade Highway, built in the early 1920's, linking Christina Lake and Rossland which was replaced in 1962 by the current Blueberry-Paulson (Bonanza Pass) section to Castlegar. The imposing mountains west of Kootenay Lake would not have a motor road through them until 1964 when Creston and Salmo were joined by the avalanche-prone Kootenay Pass—at 1774 metres the highest paved through-road in British Columbia.

Bottom-right can be seen the soon to be finished Going-to-the-Sun Road through Montana's Logan Pass, completed in 1933, the northernmost route through the American Rocky Mountains. On the opposite side, the northernmost route through the American Cascades was built in 1972, the North Cascades Highway over Rainy and Washington Passes—the highest highway in the Washington Cascades.

The most recent addition to the road system in southern British Columbia, also through the Cascades, was the Coquihalla Highway from Hope to Kamloops via Merritt, completed in 1987. In 1990 a connector over the Thompson Plateau at Pennask Summit—at 1728 metres the second highest highway in the province—joined Aspen Grove and Peachland.

A detailed view of the road system in 1925 as published in a portion of Auto Trails Map of British Columbia by Rand McNally. Note the first paved motor road through the Canadian Rocky Mountains, completed in 1923, via Vermilion Pass and Sinclair Pass on the Banff-Windermere Road.

Crossing British Columbia entirely by car—without using a ferry—was not possible until the 311km-long Big Bend Highway, linking Revelstoke and Golden along the Columbia River, was completed in 1940. The Big Bend was replaced when the Trans-Canada Highway was completed between Revelstoke and Golden in 1962, the former highway later submerged as part of a massive hydro-electric project. The current highway (#23 North) closely follows the original road although sits higher up and is the route's third incarnation.

Fraser Canyon, Gold Bridge, Whistler

Surrey (79m), Port Kells (9m), Fort Langley (6m), [5-minute ferry across Fraser River], Albion (6m), Whonnock (18m), Silverdale (33m), Mission (47m), Hatzic (16m), Dewdney (17m), Deroche (21m), Lake Errock (18m), Harrison Mills (15m), [highest point: 120m], Agassiz (15m), Hope (45m), Choate (75m), Yale (76m), Spuzzum (132m), Chapmans (118m), Boston Bar (153m), Jackass Mountain Summit (361m), Lytton (195m), Lillooet (220m), [now on Road 40 which is about 75% paved], Carpenter Summit (729m), Gold Bridge (664m), [hitched a ride on the heavily washboarded Hurley River Forest Service Road to the paved Pemberton Meadows Road], Pemberton (208m), Whistler Summit (681m), Whistler (640m), Garibaldi (381m), Cheekye (49m), Brackendale (21m), Squamish (31m), [highest point: 160m], Britannia Beach (49m), Lions Bay (50m), Horseshoe Bay (80m), West Vancouver [highest point: 179m], Vancouver (9m), Burnaby (125m), New Westminster (15m), Surrey (79m).

Distance: 620km. Saddle days: 10. Average daily distance: 62km. Rest days: none. Longest ride: Lillooet to Gold Bridge (106km). Worst weather: a short thunderstorm near Gold Bridge.

Tofino, Sunshine Coast

Surrey (79m), Tsawwassen, [2-hour ferry across the Strait of Georgia], Duke Point, Nanaimo, Coombs (98m), Port Alberni Summit (420m although signed 375m), Port Alberni, [5-hour pack freighter through Port Alberni Inlet and Barkley Sound], Ucluelet, Tofino, Ucluelet, [5-hour pack freighter through Barkley Sound and Port Alberni Inlet], Port Alberni, Port Alberni Summit (420m although signed 375m), Qualicum Beach, Dashwood, Qualicum Bay, Bowser, Fanny Bay, Buckley Bay, Union Bay, Royston, Courtenay, Comox, [80-minute ferry across the Strait of Georgia], Powell River, Wildwood, Sliammon, Lund Summit (200m), Lund, Lund Summit (200m), Sliammon, Wildwood, Powell River, Westview, Pebble Beach, Myrtle Point, Brew Bay, Lang Bay, Saltery Bay, [50-minute ferry across Jervis Inlet], Earls Cove, Kleindale, Pender Harbour, Secret Cove, Halfmoon Bay, Sechelt, Selma Park, Wilson Creek, Roberts Creek, Gibsons, Langdale, [40-minute ferry across Howe Sound], Horseshoe Bay, West Vancouver [highest point: 179m], Vancouver (9m), Burnaby (125m), New Westminster (15m), Surrey (79m).

Distance: 546km. Saddle days: 11. Average daily distance: 50km. Rest days: Tofino (1). Longest ride: Lund to Kleindale (80km). Worst weather: early morning marine cloud at Tofino.

This lazy tour was mostly oceanside so many elevations are not listed. Except for one instance the Sunshine Coast Highway does not exceed 160m but has short, steep climbs in both directions. The thrice-weekly pack freighter from Port Alberni to Ucluelet (and vice versa) bypasses 92km of Highway #4 through Sutton Pass (240m).

Mica Dam, Galena Pass, Trout Lake

Surrey (79m), Port Kells (9m), Fort Langley (6m), [5-minute ferry across Fraser River], Albion (6m), Whonnock (18m), Silverdale (33m), Mission (47m), Hatzic (16m), Dewdney (17m), Deroche (21m), Lake Errock (18m), Harrison Mills (15m), [highest point: 120m], Agassiz (15m), Hope (45m), Coquihalla Pass (1244m), Coquihalla Lakes Lodge* (1117m), Kingsvale Bridge* (841m), Godey Summit (1026m), Merritt (596m), Surrey Lake Summit (1444m), Afton Summit (745m), Kamloops (349m), Pritchard (356m), Chase (354m), Squilax (360m), Sorrento (390m), [highest point: 489m], Tappen (370m), Salmon Arm (358m), [highest point: 487m], Sicamous (352m), Malakwa (379m), Craigellachie (388m), Three Valley (515m), Eagle Pass (562m), Revelstoke (445m), [highest point: 690m], Downie Creek (575m), [highest point: 685m], Mica Village [Mica Creek] (575m), Mica Summit (792m, end of highway above Mica Dam), Mica Village (575m), Downie Creek (575m), [highest point: 690m], Revelstoke (445m), [highest point: 725m], Shelter Bay (452m), [20-minute ferry across Upper Arrow Lake], Galena Bay (452m), #31-#6 Jct. (535m), Galena Pass (886m), jct. to Beaton (755m, end of pavement southbound), Trout Lake (725m), Trout Lake Summit (1010m), Gerrard (723m), Poplar Creek (660m), Meadow Creek (555m, start of pavement southbound), Cooper Creek (554m), Lardeau (549m), Shutty Bench (620m), [highest point: 704m], Kaslo (542m), Zincton Pass (1085m), New Denver (556m), Rosebery (564m), Hills (638m), Summit Lake Summit (778m), Brouse (625m), Nakusp (457m), East Arrow Park, Makinson (492m), Burton (446m), Faquier (472m), [5-minute ferry across Lower Arrow Lake], Needles (452m), [highest point: 637m], Inonoaklin Road* (496m), Angel Falls* (1145m), Monashee Pass (1241m), Gold Panner Campground* (741m), Cherryville (665m), Blue Springs (600m), Lumby (495m), Lavington (549m), Coldstream (518m), Vernon (385m), Kalamalka Summit (586m), Oyama (396m), Winfield (428m), Kelowna (344m), Westbank (344m, camped along Okanagan Lake), Drought Hill Summit (521m), #97C-#97 Jct. (494m), Pennask Summit (1728m), Elkhart Road* (1540m, on a forestry road), [lowest point: 1020m], Aspen Grove (1065m), Hamilton Summit (1110m), Merritt (596m), Kingsvale (815m; via Coldwater Road), Coquihalla Pass (1244m), Hope (45m), Bridal Falls (15m), Rosedale (15m), Chilliwack (12m), Abbotsford (58m), [highest point: 128m via Highway #1A], Aldergrove (76m), Langley (59m), Surrey (79m).

Distance: 1745km. Saddle days: 25. Average daily distance: 70km. Rest days: none. Longest ride: Hope to Surrey (133km). Worst weather: Strong headwinds from Revelstoke to the Mica Dam; rain from Meadow Creek to Kaslo.

Ashcroft, Little Fort, Bella Coola

Surrey (79m), Port Kells (9m), Fort Langley (6m), [5-minute ferry across Fraser River], Albion (6m), Whonnock (18m), Silverdale (33m), Mission (47m), Hatzic (16m), Dewdney (17m), Deroche (21m), Lake Errock (18m), Harrison Mills (15m), [highest point: 120m], Agassiz (15m), Hope (45m), Coquihalla Pass (1244m), Coquihalla Lakes Lodge* (1117m), Kingsvale (815m), Merritt (596m; via Coldwater Road), Shulus (596m), Lower Nicola (595m), Canford (540m), Dot (450m), Clapperton (340m), Spences Bridge (235m), [highest point: 491m], Ashcroft (313m), Highland Valley Summit (1361m), Logan Lake (1107m), [via Meadow Creek Road — highest point: 1330m — and Coquihalla Hwy.], Kamloops (349m), Rayleigh (357m), Heffley Creek (380m), Vinsulla (357m), McLure (381m), Louis Creek (379m), Barrière (389m), Chinook Cove (384m), Darfield (389m), Little Fort (390m), McDonald Summit (1311m), Bridge Lake (1145m), Sheridan Lakes (1137m), Lone Butte (1153m), #24-#97 Jct. (1201m), Canim (1138m), 100 Mile House (930m), 105 Mile House (894m), 108 Mile House (947m), 111 Mile House (840m), 114 Mile House (860m), Lac La Hache (819m), 122 Mile House (815m), 150 Mile House (738m), Williams Lake (597m), Williams Lake River Bridge (572m), Borland Summit (873m), Chilcotin [Sheep Creek] Bridge (420m), Sheep Creek Summit (971m), Riske Creek (885m), Lee's Summit (1117m), Hanceville [Lee's Corner] (728m), Tl'etinqox-t'in (671m), Alexis Creek (790m), Redstone (919m), Chilanko Forks (914m), Bear Head Summit (1070m), Tatla Lake (923m), Kleena Kleene (897m), McClinchy Summit (1197m), Nimpko Lake (1136m), Anahim Lake (1097m), Heckman Pass (1494m), Stuie [Tweedsmuir Lodge*] (162m), Firvale (107m), Hagensborg (52m), Bella Coola (17m), [12-hour ferry], Bear Cove (7m), Port Hardy (22m), Port McNeill (10m), Nimpkish (91m), Woss (185m), Woss Summit (424m), Sayward Jct. (19m), Roberts Summit (300m), Bloedel (34m), Campbell River (14m), Shelter Point (12m), Oyster River (14m), Black Creek (65m), Merville (54m), Grantham (49m), Courtenay (24m), Royston (20m), Union Bay (12m), Buckley Bay (8m), Fanny Bay (8m), Bowser (61m), Qualicum Bay (8m), Dashwood (17m), Qualicum Beach (8m), French Creek (9m), Parksville (9m), Nanoose Bay (15m), Wellington (114m), Nanaimo (7m), Duke Point (6m), [2-hour ferry across the Strait of Georgia], Tsawwassen (3m), Surrey (79m).

Distance: 1670km. Saddle days: 28. Average daily distance: 62km. Rest days: Bella Coola (1). Longest ride: Port McNeill to Sayward Jct. (131km). Worst weather: heavy rain at Bella Coola and northern Vancouver Island.

Lillooet, Merritt, Beaverdell, Rock Creek

Surrey (79m), Langley (59m), Aldergrove (76m), [highest point: 128m via Highway #1A], Abbotsford (58m), Yarrow (9m), Vedder Crossing (15m), Chilliwack (12m), Rosedale (15m), Bridal Falls (15m), Hope (45m), Choate (75m), Yale (76m), Spuzzum (132m), Chapmans (118m), [highest point: 330m], Boston Bar (153m), Jackass Mountain Summit (361m), Lytton (195m), [highest point: 462m], Lillooet (220m), [back to Lytton], Lytton (195m), Spences Bridge (235m), Clapperton (340m), Dot (450m), Canford (540m), Lower Nicola (595m), Shulus (596m), Merritt (596m), Hamilton Summit (1110m), Aspen Grove (1065m), Kentucky-Alleyne* (991m), Aspen Grove (1065m), [lowest point: 1020m], Elkhart Lodge* (1555m), Pennask Summit (1728m), #97C-#97 Jct. (494m), Drought Hill Summit (521m), Westbank (420m), Kelowna (344m), Kelowna-Rock Creek Summit (1265m), Carmi (830m), Beaverdell (788m), Rhone (671m), Westbridge (640m), Zamora (636m), Rock Creek (610m), Bridesville (1028m), Anarchist Summit (1233m), Osoyoos (278m), Richter Pass (682m), Cawston (398m), Keremeos (415m), Hedley (530m), Princeton (640m), Sunday Summit (1282m), east of Similkameen Falls (952m), Eastgate (1032m), Manning Park Lodge* (1198m), Allison Pass (1342m), Sumallo Grove* (628m), Sunshine Valley (700m), Hope Slide* (728m), Hope (45m), Agassiz (15m), [highest point: 120m], Harrison Mills (15m), Lake Errock (18m), Deroche (21m), Dewdney (17m), Hatzic (16m), Mission (47m), Silverdale (33m), Whonnock (18m), Albion (6m), [5-minute ferry across Fraser River], Fort Langley (6m), Port Kells (9m), Surrey (79m).

Distance: 1011km. Saddle days: 18. Average daily distance: 56km. Rest days: Osoyoos (1). Longest ride: Manning Park Lodge to Agassiz (101km). Worst weather: light rain and heavy headwinds at Sunshine Valley.

Seagull Tour

This tour was a departure from previous trips: no mountain climbing except for the Chuckanut Hills south of Bellingham. That is, a 10-day sea level circle tour from Blaine through Bellingham, Le Connor, Anacortes, Oak Harbour, Port Townsend, Sequim, Port Angeles, Victoria, Sidney and then back home. For a change I spent more time off the bike than on it.

Prince George, Radium, Kootenay Bay

Surrey (79m), Port Kells (9m), Fort Langley (6m), [5-minute ferry across Fraser River], Albion (6m), Whonnock (18m), Silverdale (33m), Mission (47m), Hatzic (16m), Dewdney (17m), Deroche (21m), Lake Errock (18m), Harrison Mills (15m), [highest point: 120m], Agassiz (15m), Hope (45m), Choate (75m), Yale (76m), Spuzzum (132m), Chapmans (118m), Boston Bar (153m), Jackass Mountain Summit (361m), Lytton (195m), Spences Bridge (235m), Oregon Jack Summit (500m), Cache Creek (470m), Clinton (887m), Chasm, 70 Mile House (1080m), Begbie Summit (1237m, highest point on the Cariboo Highway), 93 Mile (1200m), Canim (1138m), 100 Mile House (930m), 105 Mile House (894m), 108 Mile House (947m), 111 Mile House (840m), 114 Mile House (860m), Lac La Hache (819m), 122 Mile House (815m), 150 Mile House (738m), Williams Lake (597m), Wildwood Summit (882m), Soda Creek (515m), McLeese Lake (564m), Marguerite (445m), Kersley (567m), Quesnel (486m), Hush Creek Summit (851m), Strathnaver (655m), Hixon (589m), Stoner (565m), Red Rock (664m), Prince George (575m), Purden Lake Resort* (780m), [lowest point: 669m], Dome Creek Diner* (806m), West Twin Summit (952m), McBride (724m), Tête Jaune Cache (777m), Mt. Robson (812m), Red Pass Jct. (1059m), Yellowhead Pass (1151m) Alberta Jasper (1061m), Columbia Icefield (1981m), Wilcox Creek*, Sunwapta Pass (2035m), Saskatchewan River Crossing (1392m), Waterfowl Lakes* (1792m), Bow Pass (2067m), Lake Louise (1539m), Protection Mountain*, Castle Mountain (1425m), [highest point: 1739m], Vermilion Pass (1640m) British Columbia Vermilion Crossing (1275m), Kootenay Crossing (1170m), McLeod Meadows* (1131m), [lowest point: 1116m], Sinclair Pass (1486m), Radium Hot Springs (886m), Edgewater (836m), Brisco (823m), Spillimacheen (818m), Harrogate (788m), Castledale (802m), Parson (800m), McMurdo (795m), Nicholson (796m), Golden (790m), Radium Hot Springs (I did Radium-Golden in both directions; 886m), Windermere (802m), Fairmont Hot Springs (826m), Canal Flats (814m), Skookumchuck (790m), #93-#95/#95A Jct. (778m), Ta Ta Creek (842m), Kimberley (1120m), Marysville (945m), Wycliffe (914m), Cranbrook (921m), Fort Steele (742m), Cranbrook (921m), Moyie Summit (997m), Moyie (935m), Ryan (915m), Yahk (863m), Curzon #3-#95 Jct. (855m), Kitchener (652m), Erickson, Creston (611m), Wynndel (617m), Sirdar (566m), Kuskonook (554m), Sanca (553m), Boswell (573m), Gray Creek (547m), Crawford Bay (602m), Kootenay Bay (549m), [35-minute ferry across Kootenay Lake], Balfour (542m), Nelson (533m), Taghum (570m), South Slocan (457m), Shoreacres (517m), Glade (503m), Thrums (473m), Castlegar (433m), Nancy Greene Lake* (1270m), Blueberry Pass (1340m), Paulson Summit (1535m), Christina Lake (460m), Grand Forks (516m), Eholt Summit (1028m), Greenwood (748m), Boundary Falls (712m), Midway (577m), Rock Creek (610m), Bridesville (1028m), Anarchist Summit (1233m), Osoyoos (278m), Oliver (304m), Okanagan Falls (348m), Kaleden [#3A-#97 Jct.] (475m), Marron Summit (780m), Marron Valley (671m), Olalla (523m), Keremeos (415m), Hedley (530m), Princeton (via #3 and Old Hedley Road; 640m), Sunday Summit (1282m), east of Similkameen Falls (952m), Eastgate (1032m), Manning Park Lodge* (1198m), Allison Pass (1342m), Sumallo Grove* (628m), Sunshine Valley (700m), Hope Slide* (728m), Hope (45m), Agassiz (15m), [highest point: 120m], Harrison Mills (15m), Lake Errock (18m), Deroche (21m), Dewdney (17m), Hatzic (16m), Mission (47m), Silverdale (33m), Whonnock (18m), Albion (6m), [5-minute ferry across Fraser River], Fort Langley (6m), Port Kells (9m), Surrey (79m).

Distance: 2750km. Saddle days: 35. Average daily distance: 78km. Rest days: none. Longest ride: Purden Lake Resort to McBride (147km). Worst weather: heavy rain and strong headwinds from Allison Pass to Hope.

Kamloops, Princeton, Rossland, Revelstoke

Surrey (79m), Port Kells (9m), Fort Langley (6m), [5-minute ferry across Fraser River], Albion (6m), Whonnock (18m), Silverdale (33m), Mission (47m), Hatzic (16m), Dewdney (17m), Deroche (21m), Lake Errock (18m), Harrison Mills (15m), [highest point: 120m], Agassiz (15m), Hope (45m), Coquihalla Pass (1244m), Kingsvale (815m), Merritt (596m; via Coldwater Road), Shulus (596m), Mamit Lake (960m), Logan Lake (1107m), [now on Meadow Creek Road; highest point: 1330m], Lac Le Jeune (1273m), Kamloops (via Lac Le Jeune Road; 349m), Knutsford (786m), Knutsford Summit (910m), Stump Lake (760m), Quilchena (640m), Nicola (642m), Merritt (596m), Hamilton Summit (1110m), Aspen Grove (1065m), Princeton (640m), Hedley (530m), Keremeos (via Old Hedley Road and #3; 415m), Cawston (398m), Richter Pass (682m), Osoyoos (278m), Anarchist Summit (1233m), Bridesville (1028m), Rock Creek (610m), Midway (577m), Boundary Falls (712m), Greenwood (748m), Eholt Summit (1028m), Grand Forks (516m), Christina Lake (460m), Paulson Summit (1535m), Blueberry Pass (1340m), Nancy Greene Lake* (1270m), Nancy Greene Summit (1575m), Rossland (1038m), Warfield (606m), Trail (417m), Genelle (472m), Castlegar (433m), Thrums (473m), Glade (503m), Shoreacres (517m), Crescent Valley (610m), Slocan Park (549m), Vallican (527m), Winlaw (542m), Slocan (561m), Slocan Lake Summit (860m), Silverton (557m), New Denver (556m), Rosebery (564m), Hills (638m), Summit Lake Summit (778m), Brouse (625m), Nakusp (457m), St. Leon (460m), Halcyon Hot Springs (525m), [highest point: 702m], #31-#6 Jct. (535m), Galena Bay (452m), [20-minute ferry across Upper Arrow Lake], Shelter Bay (452m), [highest point: 725m], Revelstoke (445m), Eagle Pass (562m), Three Valley (515m), Craigellachie (388m), Malakwa (379m), Sicamous (352m), [highest point: 487m], Salmon Arm (358m), Tappen (370m), [highest point: 489m], Sorrento (390m), Squilax (360m), Chase (354m), Pritchard (356m), Kamloops (349m), Afton Summit (745m), Surrey Lake Summit (1444m), Merritt (596m), Kingsvale (815m; via Coldwater Road), Coquihalla Pass (1244m), Hope (45m), Agassiz (15m), [highest point: 120m], Harrison Mills (15m), Lake Errock (18m), Deroche (21m), Dewdney (17m), Hatzic (16m), Mission (47m), Silverdale (33m), Whonnock (18m), Albion (6m), [5-minute ferry across Fraser River], Fort Langley (6m), Port Kells (9m), Surrey (79m).

Distance: 1685km. Saddle days: 21. Average daily distance: 80km. Rest days: none. Longest ride: Hope to Surrey (126km). Worst weather: a short, heavy snowfall while nearing Paulson Summit; light hail on Surrey Lake Summit.

One Way to Jasper

West Vancouver (6m), Horseshoe Bay (80m), Lions Bay (50m), Britannia Beach (49m), [highest point: 160m], Squamish (31m), Brackendale (21m), Cheekye (49m), Garibaldi (381m), Whistler (640m), Whistler Summit (681m), Pemberton (208m), Mount Currie (204m), Joffre Lakes* (1220m), Cayoosh Pass (1265m), Lillooet (220m), Fountain (527m), Glen Fraser (522m), Pavilion (676m), Marble Canyon Pass (868m), Carquile (505m), Cache Creek (470m), [highest point: 551m], Savona (352m), Afton Summit (745m), Kamloops (349m), Rayleigh (357m), Heffley Creek (380m), Vinsulla (357m), McLure (381m), Louis Creek (379m), Barrière (389m), Chinook Cove (384m), Darfield (389m), Little Fort (390m), Clearwater (460m), Vavenby (470m), McMurphy (560m), Avola (610m), Messiter Summit (765m), Blue River (687m), Thunder River (698m), Lempriere (735m), Clemina (835m), Albreda Summit (904m), Albreda (873m), Canoe River (792m), Valemount (797m), Tête Jaune Cache (777m), Mt. Robson (812m), Red Pass Jct. (1059m), Yellowhead Pass (1151m) Alberta Jasper (1061m). Bus back home.

Distance: 980km. Saddle days: 12. Average daily distance: 81km. Rest days: Kamloops (1). Longest ride: Kamloops to Clearwater (126km). Worst weather: light rain from Squamish to Whistler.

Queen Charlotte and Vancouver Island

Surrey (79m), Port Kells (9m), Fort Langley (6m), [5-minute ferry across Fraser River], Albion (6m), Whonnock (18m), Silverdale (33m), Mission (47m), Hatzic (16m), Dewdney (17m), Deroche (21m), Lake Errock (18m), Harrison Mills (15m), [highest point: 120m], Agassiz (15m), Hope (45m), Choate (75m), Yale (76m), Spuzzum (132m), Chapmans (118m), Boston Bar (153m), Jackass Mountain Summit (361m), Lytton (195m), Spences Bridge (235m), Oregon Jack Summit (500m), Cache Creek (470m), Clinton (887m), Chasm, 70 Mile House (1080m), Begbie Summit (1237m, highest point on the Cariboo Highway), 93 Mile (1200m), Canim (1138m), 100 Mile House (930m), 105 Mile House (894m), 108 Mile House (947m), 111 Mile House (840m), 114 Mile House (860m), Lac La Hache (819m), 122 Mile House (815m), 150 Mile House (738m), Williams Lake (597m), Wildwood Summit (882m), Soda Creek (515m), McLeese Lake (564m), Marguerite (445m), Kersley (567m), Quesnel (486m), Hush Creek Summit (851m), Strathnaver (655m), Hixon (589m), Stoner (565m), Red Rock (664m), Prince George (575m), Vanway (735m), Bednesti (831m), Sinkut River (731m), Weneez (742m), Vanderhoof (674m), Engen (706m), Willowvale (735m), Fort Fraser (701m), Lejac (710m), Fraser Lake (671m), Endako (689m), Burns Lake (704m), Decker Lake (734m), Palling (720m), Six Mile Summit (850m, highest point on the Yellowhead Highway west of Prince George), Topley (681m), Perow (655m), Knockholt (609m), Houston (594m), Barrett Lake (655m), Hungry Hill Summit (844m), Telkwa (683m), Smithers (496m), Lake Kathlyn (520m), Evelyn (490m), Moricetown (390m), New Hazelton (314m), South Hazelton (321m), Kitseguecla (235m), Kitwanga (195m), Cedarvale (158m), Usk (110m), Terrace (67m), Salvus (13m), Rainbow Pass (160m), Prince Rupert (40m), [8-hour ferry across Hecate Strait], Skidegate Landing (16m), Queen Charlotte City (15m), Skidegate Landing (16m), Skidegate (11m), Lawnhill (8m), Tlell (8m), Port Clements (16m), Masset (5m), back to Queen Charlotte City (15m), Skidegate Landing (16m), [8-hour ferry across Hecate Strait], Prince Rupert (40m), [16-hour ferry through the Inside Passage], Bear Cove (7m), Port Hardy (22m), Port McNeill (10m), Nimpkish (91m), Woss (185m), Woss Summit (424m), Sayward (12m), Roberts Summit (300m), Bloedel (34m), Campbell River (14m), Shelter Point (12m), Oyster River (14m), Black Creek (65m), Merville (54m), Grantham (49m), Courtenay (24m), Royston (20m), Union Bay (12m), Buckley Bay (8m), Fanny Bay (8m), Bowser (61m), Qualicum Bay (8m), Dashwood (17m), Qualicum Beach (8m), French Creek (9m), Parksville (9m), Nanoose Bay (15m), Wellington (114m), Nanaimo (7m), Ladysmith (24m), Chemainus (21m), North Cowichan (11m), Duncan (14m), Cowichan Bay (75m), Mill Bay (5m), [25-minute ferry across Saanich Inlet], Brentwood Bay (5m), Keating (65m), Sidney (13m), Swartz Bay (8m), [95-minute ferry across the Strait of Georgia], Tsawwassen (3m), Surrey (79m).

Distance: 2215km. Saddle days: 24. Average daily distance: 92km. Rest days: Prince George (1), Prince Rupert (1), Nanaimo (2). Longest ride: Terrace to Prince Rupert (145km). Worst weather: heavy non-stop rain from Burns Lake to Houston; very strong headwinds from Skidegate to Masset.

British Columbia, Montana, Idaho, Washington

Surrey (79m), Port Kells (9m), Fort Langley (6m), [5-minute ferry across Fraser River], Albion (6m), Whonnock (18m), Silverdale (33m), Mission (47m), Hatzic (16m), Dewdney (17m), Deroche (21m), Lake Errock (18m), Harrison Mills (15m), [highest point: 120m], Agassiz (15m), Hope (45m), Coquihalla Pass (1244m), Kingsvale Bridge* (841m), Godey Summit (1026m), Merritt (596m), Surrey Lake Summit (1444m), Afton Summit (745m), Kamloops (349m), Monte Creek (358m), Monte Lake Summit (704m), Monte Lake (704m), Westwold (632m), Falkland (594m), Sweetsbridge (544m), O'Keefe (470m), Vernon (385m), Coldstream (518m), Lavington (549m), Lumby (495m), Blue Springs (600m), Cherryville (665m), Gold Panner Campground* (741m), Monashee Pass (1241m), Angel Falls* (1145m), Inonoaklin Road* (496m), [highest point: 637m], Needles (452m), [5-minute ferry across Lower Arrow Lake], Faquier (472m), Burton (446m), Makinson (492m), East Arrow Park, Nakusp (457m), Brouse (625m), Summit Lake Summit (778m), Hills (638m), Rosebery (564m), New Denver (556m), Zincton Pass (1085m), Kaslo (542m), Ainsworth Hot Springs (557m), [highest point: 706m], Balfour (542m), Nelson (533m), Apex Summit (942m), Ymir (732m), Salmo (667m), #6-#3 Jct. (640m), Kootenay Pass (1774m, highest highway in British Columbia), west of Creston (534m), Creston (611m), Erickson, Kitchener (652m), Curzon #3-#95 Jct. (855m), Yahk (863m), Ryan (915m), Moyie (935m), Moyie Summit (997m), Cranbrook (921m), Wardner (761m), Jaffray (825m), Galloway (884m), Elko (931m), Hosmer (1042m), Fernie (1010m), Sparwood (1140m), Natal (1143m), Crowsnest Pass (1396m) Alberta Crowsnest (1303m), Coleman (1314m), Blairmore (1288m), Cowley (1189m), Pincher, Pincher Creek (1155m), Twin Butte, Waterton (1280m), Chief Mountain Customs (1624m) Montana Crusher Summit (1669m), Babb (1375m), St. Mary (1383m), Logan Pass (2036m), Lake McDonald (975m), Apgar (964m), West Glacier (980m), Coram (968m), Martin City (981m), Hungry Horse (941m), Columbia Falls (942m), Whitefish (925m), Olney (971m), south of Stryker (1018m), Fortine (904m), Eureka (782m), Rexford (775m), Libby (629m), Troy (575m) Idaho Moyie Springs (671m), Bonners Ferry (588m), Naples (621m), Elmira (655m), Samuels (654m), Colburn (664m), Sandpoint (635m), Dover (628m), Wrencoe (636m), Laclede (640m), Thama (633m), west of Priest River (691m) Washington Newport (659m), Dalkena (623m), Usk (625m), Cusick (625m), Locke (624m), Jared (628m), Ruby (628m), Blueslide (628m), Lost Creek (629m), Tiger (639m), Ione (637m), Tiger (639m), Tiger Summit (992m), Middleport (963m), Park Rapids (885m), Colville (488m), Kettle Falls (495m), west of Kettle Falls across Columbia River (410m), Sherman Pass (1699m, highest highway in Washington), Republic (741m at #20-#21 Jct.), Wauconda Pass (1313m), Wauconda (1084m), Tonasket (277m), Riverside (262m), Omak (255m), Okanogan (253m), Loup Loup Pass (1225m), Twisp (473m at #20-#153 Jct.), Winthrop (537m), Mazama (646m), Klipchuck* (896m), Washington Pass (1669m), Rainy Pass (1479m), Newhalem (155m), Marblemount (95m), Rockport (83m), Sauk, Van Horn (78m), Concrete (67m), Hamilton (29m), Lyman (27m), Sedro-Woolley (16m), Prairie (75m), Wickersham (95m), Doran (97m), Saxon (100m), Acme (94m), Clipper (76m), Van Zandt (73m), Deming (64m), Nugents Corner (48m), Lawrence (44m), Nooksack (25m), Sumas (11m) British Columbia Huntingdon (8m), Abbotsford (58m), [highest point: 128m via Highway #1A], Aldergrove (76m), Langley (59m), Surrey (79m).

Distance: 2650km. Saddle days: 31. Average daily distance: 85km. Rest days: Vernon (1). Longest ride: Hope to Surrey (126km). Worst weather: hail outside Whitefish; heavy thunder showers south of Eureka.

One Way to Edmonton

Surrey (79m), Port Kells (9m), Fort Langley (6m), [5-minute ferry across Fraser River], Albion (6m), Whonnock (18m), Silverdale (33m), Mission (47m), Hatzic (16m), Dewdney (17m), Deroche (21m), Lake Errock (18m), Harrison Mills (15m), [highest point: 120m], Agassiz (15m), Hope (45m), Hope Slide* (728m), Sunshine Valley (700m), Sumallo Grove* (628m), Allison Pass (1342m), Manning Park Lodge* (1198m), Eastgate (1032m), east of Similkameen Falls (952m), Sunday Summit (1282m), Princeton (640m), Hedley (530m), Keremeos (415m), Olalla (523m), Marron Valley (671m), Marron Summit (780m), Kaleden [#3A-#97 Jct.] (475m), Penticton (341m), Trout Creek (346m), Summerland (516m), Greata (394m), Peachland (380m), Trépanier (348m), #97-#97C Jct. (494m), Drought Hill Summit (521m), Westbank (420m), Kelowna (344m), Winfield (428m), Oyama (396m), Kalamalka Summit (586m), Vernon (385m), Larkin (404m), Armstrong (384m), Enderby (393m), Grindrod (362m), Mara (374m), Six Mile Point (375m), Sicamous (352m), Malakwa (379m), Craigellachie (388m), Three Valley (515m), Eagle Pass (562m), Revelstoke (445m), Canyon Hot Springs (676m), Glacier (1160m), Rogers Pass (1332m), Rogers Pass (1314m), Beaver River Bridge* (844m), East Gate (843m), Quartz Creek Summit (1086m), Donald (776m), Golden (790m), Field (1256m), Kicking Horse Pass (1647m) Alberta Lake Louise (1539m), Bow Pass (2067m), Saskatchewan River Crossing (1392m), Sunwapta Pass (2035m), Columbia Icefield*, Columbia Icefield (1981m), Jasper (1061m), Hinton (990m), Obed Summit (1164m, highest point on the Yellowhead Highway excluding the Coquihalla section), Edson (925m), Evansburg (793m), Edmonton (671m). Train back home.

Distance: 1455km. Saddle days: 15. Average daily distance: 97km. Rest days: Jasper (2). Longest ride: Lake Louise to Columbia Icefield (127km). Worst weather: rain outside Vernon; light rain through Rogers Pass.